My first morning began with a traditional Turkish breakfast: fresh bread, olives, cheese, tomatoes, eggs, honey and endless glasses of tea. It was the perfect start before heading to Sultanahmet, the historic centre of the city, where most of Istanbul’s greatest landmarks stand within walking distance of each other.

The first stop was Hagia Sophia, built in the 6th century as a cathedral and later used as a mosque, a museum and again as a mosque. Walking beneath its enormous dome, and seeing Byzantine mosaics alongside Ottoman calligraphy, is like looking at 1,500 years of history in one room.

Just across the square is the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque), completed in the early 17th century. Its six minarets, cascading domes and thousands of blue İznik tiles inside make it one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever visited.

I also walked through the Hippodrome, the old Roman chariot-racing arena, where the Obelisk of Theodosius and the Serpent Column still stand. In the afternoon I went underground to the Basilica Cistern, a vast 6th-century water reservoir with rows of columns rising from the water and two mysterious Medusa heads. The cool, dim light made it feel like another world.

For dinner, I tried my first proper döner kebab, followed by a strong cup of Turkish tea.

Day 1 ended with a simple thought: in Istanbul, every street has a story.

On the second day I visited Topkapı Palace, the residence of the Ottoman sultans for nearly four hundred years. Its courtyards, pavilions and the famous Harem are full of decorated tiles and rich detail, and the terraces have wonderful views over the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn.

After the palace I went to the Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, with thousands of shops selling lamps, ceramics, carpets, textiles, jewellery and souvenirs. It is easy to get lost among the arched passages, but that is part of the fun.

Not far from the bazaar stands the Süleymaniye Mosque, the masterpiece of the great architect Sinan, built for Suleiman the Magnificent. Its calm courtyard and hilltop position give beautiful views over the city.

I then wandered through the Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar), where the air smells of spices, dried fruit, nuts, and tea. It was also the place to try baklava, Turkish delight and Turkish coffee, each one sweeter and more delicious than the last.

The third day was about the water. I took a Bosphorus cruise, sailing between Europe and Asia and passing palaces, wooden mansions, fortresses and stunning bridges. Seeing the city from the water gave me a new sense of its scale.

Back on shore, I crossed the Galata Bridge, where fishermen line the rails, and tried a classic balık ekmek, a grilled fish sandwich, at the waterfront. Then I climbed up to the Galata Tower, a medieval tower whose top gives a panoramic view of the Golden Horn and the old city skyline.

From there I walked down the lively İstiklal Avenue, past historic tram lines, cafés, bookshops and street musicians, all the way to Taksim Square. I also visited Dolmabahçe Palace, the grand 19th-century palace on the Bosphorus shore, with its crystal chandeliers and ornate halls.

In the evening I had a stuffed baked potato called kumpir and a scoop of stretchy Turkish ice cream in Ortaköy, next to the beautiful Ortaköy Mosque on the water.

For my last day I took a ferry across to the Asian side of Istanbul, a simple crossing that ended up being one of my favourite parts of the whole trip. Watching the city skyline slide by from the deck, with seagulls following the boat, was unforgettable.

In Kadıköy I explored the busy food market, with stalls of cheese, olives, pickles, seafood and pastries, and walked through the neighbourhood of Moda, with its cafés and seaside views. From the coast near Üsküdar I could also see the Maiden’s Tower, the little island tower that sits in the Bosphorus and has inspired so many legends.

Back on the European side, I visited the Chora Church (Kariye), known for its beautifully preserved Byzantine mosaics and frescoes, and had one last glass of Turkish tea while watching the sun set over the rooftops.

By the end of the fourth day, it was time to pack my bags and say goodbye. Istanbul had given me far more than I expected in such a short time.

From the dome of Hagia Sophia and the tiles of the Blue Mosque, to the bazaars, the ferries, and the tea, every part of the city had its own character.

• Turkish breakfastBread, olives, cheese, eggs, honey and tea, served in generous shared plates.
• Döner kebabThinly sliced meat, warm bread and fresh salad, one of the easiest meals to find anywhere.
• Balık ekmekThe famous grilled fish sandwich, eaten beside the water near Galata Bridge.
• KumpirA big baked potato loaded with toppings, a popular street food in Ortaköy.
• Baklava and Turkish delightSweet, nutty pastries and soft, flavoured sweets from the Spice Bazaar.
• Turkish tea and coffeeServed in small glasses and cups, and always available.

• Dress modestly at mosques.Cover shoulders and knees, and be ready to remove your shoes.
• Go early.Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern are much calmer in the morning.
• Use the ferries.They are an easy, affordable way to cross the Bosphorus and get great views.
• Bargain politely.Prices in the bazaars are often negotiable, and a smile helps.