My Frankfurt trip began with the arrival and an easy ride into the city. Public transport was fast and simple, and after dropping my bags I headed straight to the historic centre.

The heart of the Old Town is the Römerberg, a square framed by timber-framed houses and the stepped gable of the Römer town hall. Much of the area was rebuilt after the Second World War, but it still has the warm, storybook feel you hope for in a German city. In summer the square was full of people sitting outside, taking photos and enjoying the sun.

A short walk away I visited Frankfurt Cathedral, with its red sandstone tower rising above the rooftops. Inside, it felt calm and solemn, a nice contrast to the busy streets outside.

Frankfurt is the rare city where a medieval square and a glass skyscraper share the same view.

In the afternoon I walked down to the river and crossed the Eiserner Steg, the iron footbridge that connects the two banks. From the middle of the bridge you can see the skyline on one side and the old church towers on the other. I then followed the River Main promenade, where locals were relaxing on the grass, cycling, and enjoying the long August light.

For dinner I crossed to Sachsenhausen and tried the local speciality, Apfelwein (apple wine), together with a traditional plate of German food. It is tart, refreshing and very Frankfurt. Afterwards I strolled back along the river as the skyline lit up for the night.

On the second morning I visited the Kleinmarkthalle, an indoor market full of fresh produce, cheese, bread, sausages and small food stalls. I had a quick breakfast there and browsed the stands. It is a great place to see everyday Frankfurt, far from the office towers.

Next I walked along the Museumsufer, the riverside “museum embankment” lined with some of the city’s best museums. I picked one that suited my mood and enjoyed the mix of art, history and cool interiors, which was welcome on a warm day.

To see the city from above, I went up the Main Tower. The observation deck gives a wide view over the skyline, the river and the flat green land stretching out towards the horizon. It is easy to see why locals sometimes call the city “Mainhattan”.

After one last walk by the river and a final coffee, it was time to collect my luggage and head to the airport. I left with a much better impression than I expected: Frankfurt is friendly, green, easy to navigate and full of contrasts.

Two days was short, but it was enough to see how the city fits together: the reconstructed Old Town, the river at its centre and the towers rising just behind. Everything is close, which makes a quick trip easy and relaxed.

• Stay central. The Old Town, the river and most museums are within walking distance of each other.
• Try Apfelwein. Ask for it in Sachsenhausen, and pair it with a local dish.
• Go up at sunset. The Main Tower is especially nice in the evening, but check opening hours and book ahead.
• Carry a reusable bottle. August can be hot, and the riverside is perfect for long walks.